If you'd like to print this page, just go right ahead. I'm using a print style sheet that will print the center contents only, without the background or sidebar. You may want to check your browser print settings to make sure you have image printing turned on. The only images that will print will be the ones in the center column. Check it out in print preview in your browser.
Be sure to check out the latest part of this site, the Halloween Projects and Posts, the blog for this site. Post your comments to the stories, projects, props, recipes, and more.
I've redesigned this site, since I really really like this template. If you're interested in doing your website in valid XHTL with CSS, please let me know. I'll direct you to the very best Halloween style templates on the web and help you get started.
Added a site about the haunted lighthouses that are nearby. I seem to live in the center of the Maine coast haunts. Check it out.
Be sure to check out the writeup from the Portland Press Herald Maine Sunday Telegram which came out October 29. Note the Sue Clark quoted in the article. That's me.
Visit with the best haunters on the 'net at Halloween Forum. I'm known as Michigal on there.
Check the links on the left side of these page for more of my sites.
For all you IE users, if you get a notice that there's active content on this page, it's strictly a javascript running a countdown to Halloween. It's okay to run it, but if you don't you're not really missing anything, other than how few days are left.
One of the main problems I have is wind. It's not unusual for winds to exceed 50 mph in October around here. Coupled with the fact my display faces west and the road it's on runs north and south, I take the winds head on. Last year we had a windstorm the week before Halloween, and it brought down my crypt. However, most of the props survived, with only a little straightening, because of the way I have constructed these frames. They're very sturdy, but if you're worried about killing your grass (I don't) then these are not for you.
Tools needed
Saw
Screwdriver (Cordless)
Electric drill
Assorted drill bits including wood spade bits (pictured)
2-3 foot rebar (I used 30 inch lengths of 3/8 in dia. threaded rod from work)
Angle brackets (3 inch) with screws
Various PVC connectors (45 and 90 degrees)
Styrofoam wig head
1 in to 1/2 in reducer for pvc (optional)
1x3 lumber for cross bracing (optional)
Assembly
I like a drawing to work from, so here is a diagram of what the finished frame will look like. Forgive the amateurishness of it.
Mark off the exact centers of one of the 18 inch boards
Using a 1 1/4 inch spade bit, drill hole through board
Take the two 5 foot lengths of lumber and stand them up, laying one of the 18 inch pieces across the top
Check for levelness
Using 3 1/2 inch screws, attach together, with the wider side crosswise
Take the other board, and lay it flush up against the center of the frame
Attach using the angle braces, also for extra strength you can screw the boards together
If desired, pad the legs with your choice of material
If your prop will be wearing pants, now is a good time to put them on, cutting a hole in the bottom of the crotch for the pipe to fit through
Lay the frame on its back and attach the plywood base to the legs with the 3 1/2 inch screws
Cut the pvc pipe to about 5 ft 3 in; the remainder will be for arms etc.
Attach the four way connector to one end and fit the pipe through the hole in the top
Standing it upright, make sure the pipe is straight against the plywood, and mark off where it sits with a pencil (drawing around the edges with a circle is what I do)
Using a spade bit slightly larger than your rebar, drill at the center point of your mark
If you need to add bracing at the bottom, use the small pieces of leftover wood to butt up against the legs and the base; attach with screws
If you want to add cross bracing, use the 1x3 lumber to cut and attach with smaller screws across the top part of the frame
Stand your frame upright, and finish padding, dressing, cutting arms to length, making hands, etc.
To insert a wig head, you can carve out a hole in the base of the head big enough for a 1 in pipe to fit in and match, or you can use a reducer for exact size (may require short length of 1/2 in pvc)
When you're ready to put your frame up, pound the rebar in the ground, leaving about half above. Slip the base over the rebar, and into the pipe. One thing I also do is use the cross piece of the frame to keep plugs up out of the way and off the ground. Setting up away from the house, my wiring consists of contractor grade extension cords and outdoor triple taps. I hang them and hide them on that crosspiece. As I make use of low voltage spotlights in the woods, it's also an ideal place to put the photocell. Make sure the crosspiece is at the back, so nothing shows.
One of the main problems I have is wind. It's not unusual for winds to exceed 50 mph in October around here. Coupled with the fact my display faces west and the road it's on runs north and south, I take the winds head on. Last year we had a windstorm the week before Halloween, and it brought down my crypt. However, most of the props survived, with only a little straightening, because of the way I have constructed these frames. They're very sturdy, but if you're worried about killing your grass (I don't) then these are not for you.
